Please read carefully.
Place the shutter in the desired position next to the window and mark the location against the wall or window. The marks made can be used to re-align the shutter should it accidentally slip whilst you are marking the positions to drill the fixing holes.
Lay the shutters face up on a clean surface, preferably a piece of plywood or such like for drilling purposes.
Measurebetween1.5”and3inchesdownfromthetopandupfromthebottomofthe shutter and in the centre of the side rail and make a mark. You can adjust this measurement to suit and is mentioned as a guide only. For shutters of 55 inches (140cm) and over in length you will need to use six shutter spikes or screws per shutter. Mark the additional holes in the side rail on each side of the centre mullion, in line with the holes in the top and bottom that you marked earlier and in line with the centre mullion centre line.
Prior to drilling, use a sharp implement such as a bradawl (or a nail) to make a hole at each of the marked locations. This will minimise the risk of the drill bit slipping. If you are using shutter spikes drill a ¼ inch diameter hole (6.3mm-6.5mm) at each of the marked locations using a high speed (HSS) drill bit. Wood or masonry bits are not suitable as they will not give a clean cut. If you are using screws make sure that the drill size selected is smaller than the head of the screw to ensure that the screw does not pull through.
Position the shutter back on the wall using the locating marks that you made earlier and using a punch or other suitable marker such as a wax crayon/ pencil/ nail etc. mark the mounting hole locations on to the building.
If using shutter spikes you will need to drill a 6.3mm-6.5mm hole into the masonry that is deep enough to accept the spike. If you are using screws you will need to select a drill size suitable for the wall anchors that you intend to use. The anchor should sit snugly in the hole and not rotate or be loose in the hole. If the wall that you are drilling into is crumbly or if you are drilling into mortar/pointing, it may be prudent to first test a smaller drill size as the finished hole may end up being larger than planned. Make sure that you drill the hole deep enough to prevent the shutter spike from bottoming out and clear away any debris from inside the hole.
The spikes supplied can sometimes be as long as 3 inches. These can be shortened by up to an inch by snipping the end off. Push the spikes through the holes in the shutter and locate the tip of each spike into the holes in the masonry. Tap them in gently with a hammer (preferably a rubber one). Do not tap them in too far as this will cause an unsightly dish dent. The spike should go in as far as to allow the underside of the spike head at least 1mm clearance from the face of the shutter when the shutter is flush against the wall; this is to allow for expansion otherwise you will get a dimple in the shutter on hot days.
Should the shutter need to be removed at any time, the shaft of the spike can be severed (between the wall and the shutter) with snips or a thin blade. The remaining core can be drilled out very easily by using a smaller drill bit ready to receive a new spike. Replacement shutter spikes can be ordered at a nominal cost.
Shutter spikes can be used on any surface including wood, aluminium, vinyl, stucco, pebbledash, brick or masonry.
Cleaning can be carried out with warm soapy water and a brush to restore the original lustre of the shutters. Do not use a cloth as this will serve to sweep the dirt into the surface of the shutter.
Thank you for choosing Simply Shutter products.